Friday, July 30, 2010

Heresy Hurn = Yautja = Hernia? Step-by-Step Pt 1

More often than not, I fall onto a conversation on either Dakka or CMoN that talks about a miniature that causes me to sprint for my wallet...only to notice the conversation and limited ed mini or whatever is about 5 months to a year old and no longer there.. Not this time, folks.

This time I got my hands on Heresy Miniature's Limited Ed. Hurn Miniature Prototype- 1000 casts. Two of them, actually. I'm extremely pleased with the product- although there's always clean-up to do with metal minis... I was satisfied that both came undamaged. But looking at the kit, I immediately knew that this was going to be a drilling, "pinning" and green-stuff/putty job- including weather or not to give him the iconic "mask" or keep him as-is, and see his ugly mug.

Check him out on the Heresy Miniature website- Wicked paint job!

http://www.heresyminiatures.com/images/hsf028_painted_by_wildheart.jpg"


Kit Includes:

1 x Hurn Warrior body
1 x Round/Square slotted/non-slotted base of your choice
1 x Telescopic Spear in-hand and Contracted Spear back accessory Sprue
1 x Extended Wrist Blades Gauntlet Sprue (both arms)
1 x Contracted Wrist Blade Gauntlet Sprue (both arms)
1 x Plasmacaster Weapon and Mount (3 pcs) Sprue
1 x Fists (2 closed fists, 1 gripping w/ holes on either side)

Washed and brushed all components to a nice shine with my wife's toothbrush... I mean, wait. What?? But seriously. Soap and water... and a soft bristle brush to get rid of whatever the hell was there... before you start.

-ARM ASSEMBLY-

Here it is with one arm assembled... In the words of the the immortal Dutch... Yoo ah wun ugly muhzah... with so many pieces, only using superglue would make this an extremely fragile model.


1) I start by drilling the arm-stub with the GW Drill. I drill about 3-4 cm into a stable part (or deeper, depending on the model size and part weight) using the drill to create the base.


2) I dip a section of copper wire into Loc-tite and stick it in the previously drilled hole. Why copper wire? Well, it's not as strong as brass or even cut paper-clips (I don't envy you if you work with that...) but it's kinda soft AND flexible. This is key.

...Also, the size of my wire leaves just the right amount of play between the drilled hole and the OD of the wire- dip it into Loc-tite or whatever you use, stick it in, and the glue forms a solid seal with the walls and wire.


3) OOPS!!! I made a mistake! I should have drilled at an angle on the balljoint and not straight in... dammit! How to fix it? Remember when I said copper was SOFT and FLEXIBLE? BOOYAH!! I drilled the Wristblade Gauntlet from one side to the other and dry fit the part onto the copper. Obviously, it didn't w/ the wire straight. But I put it on there, and bent the copper into shape at a reasonable speed (AKA don't hulk out). I didn't have to remove the wire... I didn't have to drill again. And the fit was tight. I put a bit of superglue- a small teardrop on the wire or on the gauntlet hole, and ran it up and down on the wire, then pushed it once more into permanence on the elbow stub.


Voila! The glue settles and seals the difference between the wire and the drill hole, then adheres to the stub and locks it into place. The only thing left is the fist- drill a small hole into that (smaller component, so 1-2cm max into it), cut the copper wire to length... and you've got Pred...er... Hurn Warrior ready for the next operation.

Stay tuned

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